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SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS AND CHEMISTS CONFERENCE 2020

28 March 2020

Indigenous Arctic Fish Skin: A study of different traditional skin processing technology 

Elisa Palomino, Central St Martins, University of the Arts, London

Gustavo Adrian Defeo, Ars Tinctoria

Lotta Rahme, independent tanner

http://www.sltc.org/latest-sltc-conference/



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CRAFT CONFERENCE 2019 FISH SKIN SUSTAINABILITY CRAFT AND MATERIAL INNOVATION

05 November 2019

Craft Conference 2019 - Elisa Palomino, Lotta Rahme

 "Fish skin: sustainability, craft and material innovation and its application

https://www.uttv.ee/naita?id=29188



News

A FISH SKIN CLUTCH COLLECTION USING OCEAN FOOD WASTE WHILE PRESERVING THE PLANNET’S NATURAL RESOURCES

24 October 2019

WORTH PROJECT

THE CHALLENGE

The project aims to introduce concepts such as the sustainability and craft innovation of the fish leather in the luxury industry with the final aim of substituting the luxury leather- based products while preserving ancient and innovative techniques. The technological challenge was to pilot and develop new technologies, based on artwork development for fish leather finishes together with a high component of design (inspired by Asian cultures), promoting development of future manufactured fish skin leather new products for the luxury industry.

The object of the project is the preservation and dissemination of cultural heritage connected with fish skin. The collaboration and cooperation among the Icelandic tannery and fashion designer, is a fine example of an innovative way of linking the preservation of traditional knowledge and culture and the development of culturally relevant fashion items taking in consideration the sustainable limits of the planet’s natural resources.

THE SOLUTION

Making leather from fish skin is an ancient craft historically used by many Arctic coastal cultures.The Fishskinlab clutch collection combines the technological progress of Atlantic Leather, an Icelandic tannery leading in manufacturing leather from fish skin with the designs of Elisa Palomino, a recognised international fashion designer. Fishskinlab presents a clutch collection inspired by the principles of sustainability.

https://www.worthproject.eu/project/fishskinlab/


News

FISHSKIN NETWORK EVENT IN ICELAND

17 September 2019

Participants of FISHskin 2019, international fish skin craft workshop and conference held at the Textile Center in September 2019. The program is a collaboration of Elisa Palomino (fourth on the left, middle row) & partners, including the Icelandic University of the Arts.

https://www.textilmidstod.is/en/moya/gallery/index/index/textilmidstod-islands/vinnustofur-workshops/group-picture-fishskin2019



FISHSKINLAB

Elisa Palomino’s research investigates the Sustainability and Crafts innovation of Fish Skin Leather in the luxury Industry and Higher Education. She has gained 25 years of experience working in the luxury fashion Industry and her practice-based research draws into her experience working with fish skin leather at John Galliano and Christian Dior.

The project aims to promote the use of sustainable fish leather and seeks to inspire, educate and inform designers, creators, and consumers about its beauty, quality, versatility and sustainability. The project will look at intelligent ways of using ocean food waste for the development of fashionable leather articles. The aim is to turn ocean waste into higher-value products.

The use of fishskin to create articles of clothing is a tradition shared by the Amur delta people with other Siberian and circumpolar peoples (Fitzhugh, 1988). Before synthetic fibres were invented, people clothed themselves with natural materials available in their surroundings such fishskin. (Jiao, 2012). There are several reasons for the disappearance of the craft. Overfishing and water pollution have caused fish stocks to drop and many aboriginals have turned to farming and tourism to make a living. (Lin, 2007). The shortage of raw materials and better access to textiles like cotton and silk have challenged the preservation of the fishskin craft. (Campbell, 2010).

The use of fishskin by aboriginal peoples has been recently assimilated as an innovative sustainable material for fashion due to their low environmental impact. Fish skins are sourced from the food industry, using waste, applying the principle of circular economy. They require no extra land, water, fertilisers or pesticides to produce them. (Jacobs, B. 2018)

This project is an interdisciplinary collaboration to study northern indigenous fishskin heritage building connections between anthropology, ethnography and environmental protection to address current global issues of fashion sustainability at a time when the changing Arctic environment and its wider impacts are receiving widespread attention. (Fitzhugh, 2008).

This project is centred on the research questions:

‘How can we protect sustainable development of cultural heritage connected with fishskin?’

‘How can we assist native youth, fashion students and educators in developing sustainable fishskin material by sharing traditional craft from Arctic indigenous people?

The project addresses gaps in knowledge in the fields of:

– Intangible cultural heritage preservation connected with fishskin.

– Sustainable design, developing environmentally responsible new processes for fishskin to advance material innovation.